1-20-10

I got into Kaua'i last night. The flights weren't bad besides the fact that there was a screaming baby on board from Bos to SLC, that also ended up being on my next flight to HI (still screaming). The poor thing must have had earaches.

Lauren picked me up with an authentic lei made of orchids- amazing! We relaxed at her place and her boyfriend brought us some ahi nachos, which I have never had before. Yum.

I got up this morning around 8 HI time, lucky me Lauren left me her car to use while she's at work! I took her little lapdog Coco with me and drove along the coast towards the north side of the island. For those of you that know I have no sense of direction, this island is nice because there is only one highway and it wraps around the coast of the island like a 3/4s moon, with a stretch of impassable land along the North West side called the Na Pali Coast. The only possible way to get to that part of the island is hiking or by water.

Lauren lives in the middle of the highway on the East side. I headed north for Kalihiwai Beach. It was raining, and I was hoping it would pass by the time I got to the north side, but it kept on so I continued north past that beach and went through Hanalei Bay. There are a lot of 1 lane bridges and little pull offs at overlooks or beaches.

There are yellow and red flowers in the street because they fall from the trees. I saw a lot of fruit stands and shacks along the inland side of the highway, and quite a few fields full of horses. I got out and walked the dog at Kilauea Lighthouse which was amazing, because there is a lookout and beneath it a U shaped cove that the waves roar into and smash against the rock cliffs. The water is bright blue. A pretty good day for a rainy one. I can get tan tomorrow ;).

There is no internet access at Lauren’s place, but there is a computer available at the office of her complex. Right now there is no internet or phone even there because a tree worker cut a cable. (I heard that on the only radio station that came in today). It's a little weird to have such limited access to phone or internet but I'm dealing.

Lauren's boyfriend is a local guy, his name is Kainoa. He grew up on the island so he has been educating me on the culture here. I've asked him a lot of questions hehe. I asked him about the word "haole" which I have heard before at home and debated with various people about whether or not it is a pejorative term towards whites. He explained to me that it is not used pejoratively and that it is just another word for Caucasian. (You were right Jas!).

This led to a conversation about the history of Hawaii and his understanding of the ways that racial relations were effected by the influx of non-native peoples. Such as the way that native Hawaiians no longer have the freedom to use land that has now become private property. Before the English came the Hawaiians did not really conceive of ownership around land, it was just sort of free to use. They lost use of hunting, fishing, and leisure lands, the traditional structure of monarchy was disassembled, and disease was introduced. It's interesting from a social work point of view.

There is a lot of poverty here and a huge meth problem. Affordable housing is nonexistant and a lot of people are out of work. However, the tourism business lives on and seems to keep the place going. I am hoping that because I have access to a local friend I might be able to get in on some of the cultural events that are authentic and not contrived for tourism. I want to see some of the culture in its natural state. Kainoa said that they usually have barbeques and sometimes family lauoaus (sp?) on the weekends which would be really fun. (The ones at the Hyatt are $130 per person!)

Lauren has a few beginners surf boards and we are going to take them out for a try. She told me her last friend that visited went swimming at the beach I tried to got to today, and she was surrounded by dolphins that were playing with her! Missing everyone, but gotta admit I that prefer this tropical rainstorm over any Cape Cod Wednesday in January. Muah!